Buried Alive?

Not many words for now, just pics. But being buried was quite interesting.

Getting ready to be put under sans helmet. The wires you see are finger pulse oximeters, forehead skin temp probe, EKG probe, rectal temp probe, and O2/CO2 monitors.

Begining the burial.

Halfway under, the snow was packed hard around me so I couldn't move more than a cm. The heavy wire you see was my radio to the surface.

All the way under. Only 60min to go at this point...

They look nice and warm don't they?

Headlights... no, not THOSE headlights

This callout still sticks in my head for a few reasons.

First, it was the first time a dead body bothered me. It was the first time I really thought about it once I was done, the first time I shed a tear about it, and the first time I dreamed about it. I still don't know why.

Second, the night was absolutely gorgeous. The kind of night that brings you back to alpine climbing again and again. This contrasted sharply with our mission.

Third, I LOVE my petzyl head lamp- but it is not enough light to ski by and is makes a true search in the trees difficult. Being a self confessed gear whore, I wondered what I could do about this.

When doing 24 hour mountain bike races, I have a really nice, light, bright light set up made by NiteRider. Two on my handle bars, one on my helmet and I usually run faster laps at night than I do during the day. I would love a similar headlamp possibility on my ski helmet.

There is a helmet mount already made:but it is intended for mountain biking helmets with ample open vents for the velcro straps. I'm planning to try epoxying it onto my Giro G9 ski helmet to see if it may be a viable option for holding a light. The battery pack would either go in my backpack or jacket. Anythoughts?

Mountains Are My Home

First, check out my good friend and former roommate's blog:
Mountains Are My Home

He's a super talented rando racer, mountain bike racer, and all around good guy!
He was with me on one of my worst back country touring days ever (Tele, SURE I remember how to tele!), some loooooooong ass mountain bike rides (7 hours? no prob), and introduced me to Mate tea (for which I will always be thank full).

Torture Test 2010

No callouts
More gear
Yay Christmas!
Home for Christmas and Santa was nice enough to bring me a few really nice pieces of gear that I will be beating the shit out of as soon as I get home:

Rab Mountainering Neutrino Endurance Jacket

• 750 fill down
• A giant freaking hood (I have it over my Giro G9 size XL ski helmet in this pic!)
• 638g (on my postal scale)

Mountain Hardware HeavyWeight Gloves

• Full leather palm... ohhhh yeahhhhh
• Longer cuff than most "liner" gloves

REI Performance Headliner

• Neck Gator
• Full Balaclava
• Pretty lightweight

All of which should come in handy during the upcoming cold days and nights on the snowmobiles and skis during back country rescues. Last year I didn't have a puffy with a hood, that made belay stations very chilly. I know some people aren't a fan of the hood, but I've wanted one for a while. Rab has started to become popular in the US with excellent recommendations on their gear from a few of my friends.

The helmet liner should be excelent as well. Considering the size of my head it seems like it'll fit under my climbing, skiing, ans snowmobile helm

Gear You Can't Live Without

I'll admit it, I'm a gear whore... unabashedly a gear whore. Luckily, I live in a house I work on rather than pay rent for so I have some extra money to buy gear. The whole being single with no kids thing helps too.

While I own a fair bit of gear (like a lot of us it takes up an extra bedroom), I'd like to think its because I'm picky with what I use. Hence, I'd like to begin a series about "Gear I Can't Live Without" based on my favorite packs, boots, ice tools, and other expensive shiny things I've tried to kill without success. Gear Like:

My Cold Cold World Chaos Pack

The La Sportiva Nepal Extreme Boots

and

Petzyl Gloves and Headlamp

That are always in my car ready to go.

Before I tear stuff apart one at a time, what have been some of your favorite pieces of gear? Anything you can't live without?

A Lesson in Redundancy?

http://www.sltrib.com/ci_13873501?source=most_viewed

I think there are a lot of people in the high angle rescue community who would like to more specifics about this. I hope they surface soon so that we can all learn something.

First off, I realize that any enclosed space rescue is difficult. If you add a high angle component it increases the complexity by quite a bit. Combined with a patient that is circling the drain fast and you have a rescue situation I hope I'm never placed in.

That being said, most rescues should be a "back to the basics" affair. I think it's unfair to say that "the equipment didn't fail, the rock did". The most basic part of your system is your anchor- it IS a part of your equipment in my eyes. If there are doubts you need to increase the redundancy until your safety factor (our team uses 10:1) is reached. If using man made anchors (bolts, cams, nuts, hexes, etc) then your suspicion should increase and so should the redundancy of your system. This often entails using many more anchor points than you would have otherwise to avoid a system failure. Why would you build a system that would put your patient's life in danger if one component failed?

My condolences to the patient's family and friends, along with the rescuers involved. Here's hoping we can all learn something...

Get Back on That Horse

I never was very good at horsemanship....

Physics over the summer, an ass ton of callouts (four, FOUR on one day) and my research have taken priority over this blog. I missed it though, so I'm back (thanks, AlbinoBlackBear for awakening me from my slumber).
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I've decided to apply for MD/PhD programs. That's how much I've been liking my research as of lately. The key will be finding a program where I can keep doing what I love and still fund me. Its an interesting mix of exercise science and medicine. Really, its exercise as a specific treatment for chronic pain. I think I'm going to get a masters first, especially if I get the big mutha' of a grant I just applied for.
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Rescues have been lacking as of late now that there's just a little bit of snow on the ground. Not enough white stuff to play in or slide, just enough to make it muddy. The few rescues we have had we're impressively fun.

This weekend entailed a full on alpine rescue. First, in the dark then into the next morning and afternoon. Granite covered in Rhine ice, a little snow, some really stuck kids, it made for a challenging rescue.

Highlights: A helicopter offload at 8,000 feet with one skid on a wee small granite fin, stepping out onto snow and with full packs on; beautiful alpine rock and ice; everyone surviving (I didn't think we were going to make it there in time); getting to watch my good friend and roomate lead his first rescue team in to support our helo team; getting hoisted off the mountain- I always feel like I'm flying hanging beneath the rotors of that beautiful bird.

It cannot be stressed enough: no matter how many times I get to play with the helicopters they still give me a giant woodie.

Lowlights: Getting hit in the chin as the helicopter peeled off the mountain in a wind gust; wondering all night if these kids were going to die because I couldn't get to them till the morning (and not sleeping one wink because of it); having to tell a patient that they were "just going to have to hold on till daylight" for the first time because my team couldn't climb to them in the dark; having to tell a new team member to take his comments off facebook because of the poor things they said about our patients- and the attitude I got back from it.

I'll try to upload some video we shot during the rescue but until then enjoy the poor quality pics I grabbed off the news: